Buttermere, Crummock Water & Rannerdale Knotts

It’s day two of our stay in the Lake District and we decide today is the day we’re taking baby Leo up his first fell, Rannerdale Knotts. Rannerdale is one of the smallest Wainwright’s. The Wainwrights are 214 peaks featured in Alfred Wainwright’s Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells. Part of the North Western Fells, it borders the stunning Crummock Water shores.

We park early in the village of Buttermere, our surroundings a sea of fog, a bleating fog, owing to the hidden sheep enjoying their breakfast somewhere in the hidden fields. I need the toilet and find the public one asks 50p to pee. A steep price for a call of nature, don’t you think? I reckon this hay bale agrees.

Setting off from Buttermere, we tread through the dark fog-lit fields toward Crummock Water with our four month old in his carrier, reaching the lake just as the sun and mist are stirring from their sleep, rising together in sweet, sweet harmony.

You know that feeling when you stumble on a sight that’s uniquely special at every turn and as rare as daisies in the desert?

This gives me that.

I’m not sure it gives my four month old the same.

In fact, if I stand still longer than a few seconds Leo starts “errrring”, blowing raspberries and wriggling his legs out of - what I assume - is boredom 

Savouring moments in any lengthy amount of peace is definitely a thing of the past right now, but still, my eyes devour the view while my mouth blows enough return raspberries to keep my infant amused.

Walking on, we cross the road to start our hike up Rannerdale Knotts. The beginning path is clear and not too steep, although carrying an almost 20lb cherub potato on my front soon brings on a pretty strong burn in the thighs.

The blanket of mist remains as we ascend until we’re walking above it, half charming us into believing it’s a carpet of snow. Add to this the crisp air, vibrant blue skies, warm kiss of the sun, and colossal backdrop of what I believe is Grasmoor, and we are scaling a luminous winter kingdom.

Ensuring blunder makes the mix, we mistakingly take the wrong path, scrambling too far around the mountain, before judging it too risky with the carrier and reversing. Turns out that the actual turn to the summit is a little earlier, and - once we see where it is - is quite clearly marked with a path that ascends rather steeply to the right.

A family stop to our left, posing for photos with their kiddos wearing Santa hats and I’m reminded it’s Christmas, because up here under the gaze of the sun you could be mistaken. We double check with them that we’re about to take the right path and they tell us they’ve made the same mistake as us before. So, it seems the point on the mountain at which you turn right to ascend is easy to miss. If you feel like you’ve gone too far round then you probably have.

Carrying Leo up the correct path to the summit

As we’re setting off up the final stretch, another family descend from the path above us.

“Son, come here. Go and sit on that ledge there” a man points toward what looks like a precarious sheer face of craggy rock. From where I’m standing it looks unreachable but the boy, probably about 9 or 10, breezes across it, effortless footing, and sits fearlessly down while his parents take a photo. 

I hope I’ll be as confident watching my own son scaling mountains when he’s older. More importantly, I hope Leo gains that kind of confidence as he grows.

My husband very ambitiously uses a compass to plot our routes but we also use the app All Trails, which I highly recommend as it has reviews for different hikes all over the country, including lesser known gems.

Reaching the summit

Rannerdale Knotts is my first (mini) mountain hike with my baby. Ordinarily, this would be a doddle, albeit a beautiful one, but with an infant strapped to me I find it almost as challenging as I usually would a proper mountain; not just because I’m carrying extra weight but also because the responsibility of carrying a baby who you love a terrifying amount makes it much harder to relax. I notice I’m a lot more focused on my footing. That said, I also enjoy every minute, it never feels dangerous or stupid, and as far as mountain hikes go, it seems the perfect first summit with our little one; just the right length and difficulty.

At the top we stop for photos, food and drink and I feed Leo. I’ve recently bought a top and a breastfeeding hoody from NatalActive and I’ve found them perfect for everything from yoga to hiking to everyday lounging. In fact, the hoody is the best hoody - normal hoodies included -  I’ve ever owned. The sides zip open quickly and discreetly so you can breastfeed while keeping the rest of you warm - ideal for hiking.

Smiles at the Wainwright summit with my little knight in shining knitwear

Stopping for a feed at the top.

Leo stretches his legs, all smiles. I’m told this isn’t the norm. What’s your baby like while hiking? Are they content soaking up the sights, do they fall asleep with the motion, or do they kick off and want to get out? As long as I don’t stay still too long, Leo seems to love being in his carrier.

Taking the path back down is, as most often is the case, easier than the route up. We continue wandering across the top before meandering down to our right on a sort of zigzag of paths which leads us back to the road and into the acutely quaint village of Buttermere.

The Maid of Buttermere aka the Beauty of Buttermere - a muse to many writers and poets such as Wordsworth - famously lived here. You can even eat and stay in the house - now the Fish Hotel - she once lived in.

“Aw, your baby, he looks so cosy” It’s the tenth time we’ve heard it in the last hour but we’re ten times happier hearing it now we’re at the bottom of the mountain and equally cosy in the warm, welcoming arms of Croft House Farm Cafe.

A coffee and some carrot cake later and we’re ready to take the circular path around Buttermere Lake… 

Rating: *****

I’ve rated this hike 5* and would rate it more if I could. One of my favourite hikes to date.

Length: Approx. 3-4m

Park: Buttermere carpark or B5289 roadside parking.

Difficulty: Moderate, although I suspect much easier if you’re not carrying a baby!

Terrain: Steep but short ascent, slightly scrambly in parts.

Navigation: Easy but take care not to miss the steep path to the summit midway up.

Facilities: Plenty of places to eat, drink and stay in and around Buttermere.

Highlights: Spectacular views of Crummock Water..